Naples Daily News Review 3-12-09 – Pizza fresh out of the oven

March 12th, 2009

The first time I noticed Tony Sacco’s was during the summer, when it wasn’t even open yet. The sign promising great, coal-oven pizza intrigued me, mainly because I don’t believe I’d had pizza cooked in such an oven before. And since I’m always searching for the next great pie, I was looking forward for Tony Sacco’s to open. Then, on a rainy October day, I tried their pizza and was instantly hooked. To make a long story short, Tony Sacco’s pizza has quickly become one of my favorite pizzas in town, with the bonus of being literally five minutes away from my Bonita Springs home.

Located at Coconut Point next to a few other restaurants — Ted’s Montana Grill, Hurricane’s, Pagelli — Tony Sacco’s is a relatively small joint, but it’s nicely decorated and has a warm feel to it, especially if you sit in the cozy bar area. It’s a corner restaurant and the dining room suffers from it a bit, but the bistro décor and the collection of wine bottles behind the bar counter make it a pleasant and relaxing place to sit down and enjoy a few slices of pizza.

Although the menu is mainly about pizza, Tony Sacco’s offers a few other things that are worth trying. The Caprese salad ($8) is one of the best I’ve had in town. It’s a simple dish of sliced tomatoes, mozzarella and fresh basil drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and what makes it great is the freshness and quality of all the ingredients. The mozzarella is soft, the tomatoes are fragrant, the basil is sweet and the dressing complements the dish without overpowering it. The sausage and peppers ($7) is also a good, country-style starter: savory Italian sausage is served with coal-roasted peppers, caramelized onions and toasted bread. It’s finger-licking good, literally. The garlic rotolis ($5) are a filling appetizer of homemade pizza dough baked with olive oil and garlic, then served with a basil dipping sauce. They are a good way to get acquainted with Tony Sacco’s pizza crust and also a must for carb lovers.

But what really is great about Tony Sacco’s — whether you decide to build your own or order one of the specialties — is their pizza. Cooked for a mere three minutes in an impressive looking coal-fired oven that reaches temperatures around 1,000 degrees, Tony Sacco’s pies look and taste delicious. I’m partial to the Margherita ($15.95 for a 12-inch, $18.95 for a 16-inch), the classic Italian pie made with tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and basil. It’s by eating something as simple as this pizza that one can enjoy the incredible freshness and high quality of the ingredients: the tomato sauce, unlike many others, has a distinct tomato-y flavor and has enough salt in it to make it tasty. The cheese is fresh, soft mozzarella melted to perfection. The crust is thin but not too thin, crunchy to the right point and tasty. It’s a straightforward, no-frills pizza that never fails to satisfy my cravings. For something a little out of the ordinary, the Bianco — Italian for white — ($15.95 for a 12-inch, $18.95 for a 16-inch) is a good choice. Olive oil, ricotta, provolone, pecorino romano and mozzarella are spread on this all-cheese, no-tomato pizza. The four cheeses — mild ricotta, tangy provolone, salty romano and delicate mozzarella — blend together well, each contributing with its own flavor to the end result.

For those who like to build their own pizza, Tony Sacco’s offers a long list of toppings to choose from that range from classic — sausage, ham, olives and the likes — to more adventurous, like hot finger peppers or roasted cremini mushrooms. Prices range from $10.50 for a small pie with every topping being $1.50 to $14.50 for a large pie with toppings costing $2.50 each, not bad if you consider the superior quality of the ingredients.

The tiramisu ($5) is a dessert definitely worth trying: Ladyfinger biscuits are soaked in espresso and then smothered in a rich and velvety mascarpone sauce and sprinkled with cocoa — not good for the waistline, but definitely great for the taste buds.

Unpretentious and consistent, Tony Sacco’s is a perfect example of a restaurant that specializes in a few things and makes them with high quality ingredients and the right cooking techniques.

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